NIK Collection - The most powerful suite of 8 photo plugins offering over high-quality creative effects as well as a range of innovative image-editing tools, all available with a single click while giving you non-destructive editing for total control. Hasta La Vista Green! RGBC - is a simple Photoshop plug-in that allows you to easily and very precisely modify the weights of the red, green and blue channels in an RGB image. Annie's Astro Actions - are user-friendly tools for Photoshop that help beginners and advanced imagers alike in processing their astrophotographs.
Noise Ninja - is a professional-grade RAW converter that delivers exceptional detail, outstanding image quality, and a distinctive, natural look. Starizona Action Pack - The Starizona Astronomy Action Pack for Photoshop is a set of actions that can be used to quickly and easily enhance your deep-sky astrophotos.
Astra Image - Astra Image gives you everything you need to make your images sharper, clearer, more amazing. With a clean, easy-to-use layout and intuitive tools, you will be making better photos in no time.
This helps bring out star color and avoids dark halos around stars. The Less Crunchy More Fuzzy action not only smoothes out star edges, but also helps clean up dark, crunchy-looking noise in your deep sky objects, giving the image a less processed, more natural appearance. Per Selection Only action. This allows you to be more aggressive in sharpening your deep sky objects then bring the stars back to looking natural.
Many cameras, when pushed near their limits to detect dim objects, will produce pattern noise in their images, seen as horizontal or vertical stripes or banding.
This is sometimes also referred-to as readout noise. Up to now one has either had to try to hand-edit this out, or just not stretch the luminance levels so far as to make the banding appear out of the background, losing precious dim detail. With the innovative Horizontal and Vertical Banding Reduction actions in this set this noise is history in a matter of seconds, allowing you to bring out the faintest details in your images.
Handy tip : If your image has strong horizontal banding, and you run Horizontal Banding Reduction, you may see remnant vertical banding that was hidden before. You can then run Vertical Banding Reduction and end up with a pattern-free image!
Sometimes you find yourself having stretched the levels and sharpened an image so much that the cores of the larger stars are burned out to white, leaving the star field less colorful looking than you'd like. The Increase Star Color action is perfect for fixing this. There is very likely some color information around the edges of those hot white stars, and this action pulls that color back into the star centers for an overall more visually pleasing appearance.
Digitally-captured images, because of the necessity to convert from linear to gamma-corrected representation i. What if you had a way to do noise reduction in just the darker parts, while avoiding oversoftening details in your galaxy or nebula? Now you do! Handy tip : Sometimes you want to remove noise from only the very darkest parts of the image, to preserve the most detail in dim nebula or galaxy images.
Deep Space Noise Reduction provides an even less aggressive noise reduction that really makes your image look cleaner. One kind of noise digital imagers deliver is color noise. One mistake many people make is to try to eliminate color noise by using a luminance noise reduction method.
This can end up making an image look overprocessed and flat, losing important detail yet leaving much of the color noise intact! Color Blotch Reduction , which also appears in my dSLR Tools set for general photography, finds the most visible color noise in open areas and eliminates it, while avoiding damage to the detail in the objects in the image.
Handy tip : If you have both color and luminance noise, chances are removal of the color noise will make it less necessary to do aggressive luminance noise reduction. Run Color Blotch Reduction first, and then judge the level of luminance noise to remove.
You may have to do less than you think. If you've captured subtle detail in your deep sky object, this action can help you make it more visible, without affecting the overall balance of the image.
Local Contrast Enhancement , which also appears in my dSLR Tools set for general photography, is a more sophisticated form of local contrast enhancement than you may have read about on the photo retouching sites, because it emphasizes darkening more than lightening. Handy tip : Use Local Contrast Enhancement to eliminate a "foggy" look.
At some point in astro image processing one usually "stretches the levels" - lightens up an image in layman's terms. This action actually isolates the brighter stars and lightens only the dim deep sky object and the dimmest stars in the image, resulting in a lighter image in which the stars are kept small and tight. Handy tip: If an image needs a LOT of brightening, often a combination of this action and the Curves function will give the most natural looking result, while still keeping bright star sizes small.
Occasionally you'll get to a point in your editing where you'll say, "Gee, if my nebula or galaxy were a little brighter, and the stars a little dimmer this image would be better. This is precisely the action to run if you have stars that are a bit too bright and distract from the subtle dim detail of your deep sky object.
Handy tip: When you think you're done with an image, try running this action on it. Chances are it will make an overall visual improvement. When viewing black and white images taken through filters - for example the commonly used Hydrogen Alpha filter - I often found myself wondering what the object would look like if presented in the actual color of the filter.
I tried a few experiments and found that the image always seemed more natural and real when presented as though the viewer were actually looking through the filter with his or her own eyes, or as if the image was taken with a color camera through the filter. This isn't an attempt to make a black and white image into a full-color shot, but simply the creation of an alternate visualization of what the object looks like in the color of light it was actually imaged.
While others are presenting their Ha images in plain old black and white, make yours stand out! If you'd like to see actions for other filter colors, please let us know and we'll consider creating visualization actions for additional colors in a future version of this actions set. Similar to the above, an alternate visualization of what the object looks like in the color of Oxygen III emissions line light.
Star Diffraction Spikes - High-end Ritchey-Cretien telescopes like the Hubble make them because of the cross-shaped vanes that hold the secondary mirror in position Some folks make them by tying strings across the aperture One thing's for sure - they look cool! And the highest quality astroimages often have them. I own a Schmidt-Cassegrain telescope that doesn't make them optically, so I decided to craft a way to make spikes digitally.
If your telescope doesn't make diffraction spikes and you want them in your images - or you'd like to enhance the ones you get optically - I've included four different actions for making them. You have the option of adding them to your images in the quantity you want, from spikes on even the smallest stars to spikes on only the biggest, brightest ones. NOTE: If you're looking to take the digital generation of diffraction effects to the next level in your images, please check out our new professional level companion product - StarSpikes Pro 3 - which offers a much greater range of control and stunningly photorealistic results.
Handy tip : If the results of running Star Diffraction Spikes are too gaudy for your tastes, run This reduces the brightness of just the spikes - you can make them as subtle as you like! Handy tip : If you get unnaturally strong or wide spikes on huge stars, run I've included an action that makes a simple frame around your image in the background color of your choice, and with a nice edge effect that gives the feeling of looking through a window at the heavens.
It even leaves room for you to put a caption at the bottom of your image. The way the actions in this set normally run, you end up with an updated image that replaces the one that was current when you started the action. However, sometimes to facilitate more sophisticated editing, you'd rather have the results of the action in a separate layer.
You can run this action to separate the results into two layers, one below containing the image before the action was run, and one above with the results of the action. You can then mix the before and after results creatively. You can run this action to separate the results into two layers, one below containing the image after the action was run, and one above before the action was run. The way the actions in this set work, they normally operate on the entire image, regardless of any selection you might have made before running the action.
Sometimes this is not at all what you want - you'd like the changes to be made to the selected region s only - and the Per Selection Only action is just what you need to do that.
This is a bit complicated, so let us put forth an example to help a bit
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